65. Charlbury, via Witney, to Oxford, revisiting key pubs, Saturday 24th July 2004

Finally, it was time to have a go at a proper Summer cycle pub crawl. Dave Wacey had done some quite detailed work in identifying which pubs had scored most favorably in previous evaluation exercises. We decided to have a go at the Charlbury area. Getting on a train, we arrived at Charlbury at about 2.15, and made a quick visit to the Rose and Crown, an excellent locals pub with a good selection of beer. The beer was Young's Special or Bitter, Arkell's Summer, Deuchars IPA, Moles Barleymole and Lodden Bamboozle. We decided to sample the last two and were very pleased with them - a highly refreshing couple of halves, very well kept. Well worth a repeat visit. Dave had sustained a puncture which we attended to about half a mile down the road, and whilst we were waiting for the vulcanising rubber solution to dry, we popped back for a couple of swift halves of Greene King Triumph and Morland Original at the Bell Hotel. Surprisingly, the Triumph was actually quite good, though the Morland was not. Some IPA was also available. The Bell is an acceptable establishment, a modern reasonably foody hotel, and has quite nice tables outside for use on a hot day.

After repairing a second puncture which was discovered, we were finally on our way a little later than anticipated, and climbed the hill to Finstock for our first pub there. We were served some more Triumph (IPA and Abbot also available), and a couple of glasses of water, with ice! A group of local wideboys were drinking there, propped up at the bar when we arrived. It has a very quaint, stone walled, small interior, the kind of place where, with a few well placed crusty old punters around and about, could be well suited to Midsomers Murders. In the middle of Finstock is the Plough, another quaint establishment with a more wood panelled interior, and with an Aunt Sally pitch too, which we decided to make use of in its excellent garden. The beer was most satisfying - Youngs Bitter, Brakspear, Adnams Broadside and an excellent tasting West Berks Good Old Boy. It was also served up at a competitive price. Well worth a repeat visit.

After a bit of cross country, we arrived at the Bird in Hand at Whiteoak Green, which had improved considerably since our visit last time. Although there wasn't much beer on, only Adnam’s Bitter, the atmosphere was quiet and relaxing, and we noted that they had an excellent fish based menu. It is however primarily a restaurant, but at least they have kept a couple of decent tables for drinkers. Good westward views are also to be had there. After a bit more of a cycle, we encountered the Lamb at Crawley, a smart bistro type pub with a light pine interior and extensive menu. They manage to get away with it though, for they still keep a few good beers, Brakspear Hooray Henley and Bitter, and an impressive array of bar snacks. The garden outside is well worth sitting in for views of the village green.

Snacks Board at the Lamb, Crawley Village Green from The Lamb, Crawley

The best pub of the day was just a little way out of the village, and the older locals most probably hate it. The Crawley Inn on our last visit appeared to be undergoing a makeover. This still appeared to be the case as the interior was most shabby, as indeed was the exterior. The atmosphere was superb though, with many very lively and friendly biker sorts. Although, unsurprisingly, most of the regulars drink Stella or cider, the bitters are kept excellently and average only £2 per pint. Tim Taylor Best was on, but we opted for a fantastic duo of Slaters Supreme and Notley Vale. One of them, I forget which, was weaker and an excellent session ale, whilst the other one tasted pleasingly strong.

Crawley Inn, Crawley

It would be the kind of place to while away a Sunday afternoon. A bit of a trek got us to the Angel at Witney although in actual fact it was not as good as we had hoped. Four standard beers - Tetley, Brakspear Special, Bombardier and possibly Young's Special - greeted us. Nonetheless, we had a pleasant enough stay, and there are a couple of very good bay window seats if you can get them.

Moving on to the Mason's Arms at South Leigh, we found the pub to be in a wonderful thatched roofed building. Unfortunately the proprieter, Gerry Stonhill, is something of an eccentric, and has basically turned the place into a very expensive restaurant, and the beer is too - Burton at £3 per pint (although I have to say it was good Burton as I normally won't touch that stuff), and served in handled half pint glasses with 366 on them. The interior was very cosy with fantastic tables laid for dinner, although we decided that a good idea might be to drink outside. All in all, it was an experience, but I wouldn't choose to go back unless someone was taking me to dinner there. The gents are quite interesting too; not only do they have some choice sexist pictures, but they are called the 'Gentleman's Ablutory Block'. You can see what we're dealing with here. Strangely, it had gone 7pm but no-one was eating there...

Gents' Toilet door, Gerry Stonhill's Individual Mason's Arms, South Leigh

An eventful cross country cycle down a muddy track finally led to the Woodman in North Leigh, where we met up with Jenny Brett for a spot of dinner. I had ploughed into a very muddy puddle on the way though had luckily stayed quite mud free, which was good as we were to be dining. The Woodman is quite an average pub, doing reasonably priced, filling food. The beer's not bad either - Hook Norton Best, 6X and Spitfire. Outside toilets too. Up the road is another Mason's Arms, a little more conventional, though the barman in there serving a group of old soaks had quite an impressive set of mutton chops. A product called Beacon by Everard’s was on tap, but something must have been wrong with it as it was absolutely dire, and tasted of cider. We played pool in a room away from the regulars, forcing the ale down as quickly as we could, then left sharpish.

The Shepherd's Hall on the way to Hanborough is another one of these quite standard main road pubs. Flowers and 6X were on tap. I don't really think that there is much else to report about it, though they do have a bit of food. I don't think I used the toilet as I couldn't find it. We deliberately sat on the seats outside, away from everyone else. Final stop of the day for last orders was the lively Red Lion in Cassington. Some pissed girls were outside being uncomplimentary about a wedding that they had attended earlier that day. I can't even remember what the beer was, though it wasn't very special and there weren't that many of them. The atmosphere was however good, perhaps as they were mid way through a meat draw, so possibly worth a repeat visit. There is also a glassed over well in the floor on the way to the toilets which is moderately interesting. We sat outside in the cool air taking stock of the day and galvanising ourselves for the leg home. Fortunately, some kind souls had closed the A40, and we were able to cycle pissed down the middle of the carriageway, something which is very ill advised at other times. And neither of us had particularly bad hangovers the following day.


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Dan Lovegrove
dan@doctor-lovegrove.com

Last updated
1st August 2004.